Kenyan coast of the Indian Ocean

Kenyan coast of the Indian Ocean
Finally Indian Ocean We made two thousand kilometers linking Lake Victoria and the Indian Ocean on our bicycles a few days before planned arrival. Now we can use some time to cycle around Diani Beach area, bathe, snorkel and watch sunrises over the ocean. Diani Beach coastline One day we visit Raptile Center, a private ...

Kenyan bush, bicycles and elephants

Kenyan bush, bicycles and elephants
Life ain’t easy in Taita Hills It’s getting hotter. We have lost another 1000 meters of altitude. At the end of the day we are at about 750 meters above sea level. We make a stop ahead of Tsavo West National Park, colloquially known as The Man-eater National Park. As suggested by Richard Trillo, an ...

Goat in the Masai village

Goat in the Masai village
Kenyan side of Mt. Kilimanjaro We are heading towards Kilimanjaro along the road C102. Police officers at the roadside station ensure us that we are unlikely to come across dangerous animals at this time of a year. On the way we pass scattered tiny villages with inhabitants taking care of their cattle. It’s nearly the ...

The Great Rift Valley

The Great Rift Valley
Headmaster and his desktop The newly built paved road stretches up and down and up and down and all over again for another 40 kilometers from town of Narok. At some point we turn into a narrow unpaved track. We stock up with roasted corn, mangoes and bananas at one of local markets. Up and ...

Cycling through land of the Masai

Cycling through land of the Masai
Short break in a village Every day we learn more about African animals, their behavior and nature. We cycle through land of the Masai, yet most of the time it is a no man’s land. Observing the landscape I see only fleeing antelopes, warthogs lurking from the distance, zebras resting in the shade of a ...

Masai Mara, animals without borders

Masai Mara, animals without borders
The Africa I always wanted to see A pink glow appears on the horizon at 6:30 in the morning. Some people living in recently visited villages assured us that if we keep cycling south at some point we would meet a lot of wild animals. We listen in disbelief, but they keep saying, yes, yes, ...

Kenyan Plantations

Kenyan Plantations
Lone tree between tea Among Sugar Cane Our dirty and dusty road crosses through giant sugar cane plantations. Car traffic is minimal until late in the afternoon when tractors loaded with sugar cane pop up. Workers are bringing the hard day’s work harvest to one of a few sugar cane factories in the area. We ...

Western Kenya and Teso tribe

Western Kenya and Teso tribe
House in Chamasiri village The border crossing between Lwakhakha, even though it doesn’t exist on many maps, as for African conditions is very easy one to cross. Leaving the border turmoil it quickly turns out that Western Province is a land of friendly and smiling people of Teso tribe. We cycle several extra kilometers and ...

Biking at the source of the Nile in Uganda

Biking at the source of the Nile in Uganda
Biking at the source of the Nile in Uganda Cycling in Mabira Forest Reserve The outbound road from Kampala seems to be fairly enjoyable. The initial 65 km stretch takes to Mabira Forest Reserve. Sometime on the way I remember to buy antimalarial pills. In no particular village a pharmacist offers me 20 small green ...

Rolex to start a day in Uganda

Rolex to start a day in Uganda
We pack ourselves at 6:30. It is yet before dawn, which in Uganda takes place at 7.00. I hear voices coming from street snacks vendors through dense twilight mist. The air is filled with smell of baked chapati, corn flour pancakes. One of the stands has a chalk inscription drew on a wooden plate “ROLEX ...

A cup of Ethiopian coffee

A cup of Ethiopian coffee
A sensual ritual of preparing coffee I visit a tiny souvenir shop in Addis Ababa. Lemlem is roasting beige coffee beans on a clay hearth. Just within minutes the sun is overcast by dark clouds and an imminent intense rain sets all the shopkeepers to action. I help Lemlem and her sister to hide merchandise ...

The unique Abyssinia

The unique Abyssinia
Kids on the roads less traveled are curious, throughout the world I get up at crack of dawn. Logically reasoning, a new day has just started. While a European would say it is six, according to Ethiopian time it is zero hour. The notional concept of time we are used to may be delusive. What ...

Ethiopian flavours

Ethiopian flavours
Khat house is a common meeting place The very two things that will take aback a visitor to Ethiopia is khat and injera. Moving around the country, it is the stimulant herb khat, chewed over and over again by the inhabitants of Abyssinia and a firfir, a resembling sour bubble-pancake dish, which would become a ...

A glimpse from Ethiopia

A glimpse from Ethiopia
An Ethiopian beauty In the center of Addis Ababa, just off the main street we find a friendly Ethiopian, a happy owner of a timless Renault 4. He give us a ride to the bus station. This old car has a unique charm. Clutch is a manual handle, the gears transmission works vertically and on ...

A man who makes Zambia a better place

A man who makes Zambia a better place
Zambian beauty Immediately after crossing border and making a first step on the Zambian soil I feel a full-scale relief affecting all my senses. I feel the hundreds of liters of sweat flowing down my body after some strenuous weeks spent in the Congo. Finally I am able to easily communicate with mutual understanding. Sitting ...

Cycling through the Congo

Cycling through the Congo
Curious children looking through a window in a bar A red gravel road ahead heralds hundreds of kilometers pedaling into the Democratic Republic of Congo. For the next few days I expect to become absolutely detached from the outside world, with no mobile phones, no electricity, no running water and at most a few poorly ...

The footsteps of Kazimierz Nowak

The footsteps of Kazimierz Nowak
In the years 1931-1936 a Polish explorer Kazimierz Nowak traveled all Africa using only the strength of his muscles as the first person in the world. His achievement unfortunately has never gained the appreciation it deserves. A groups of enthusiasts inspired by the character decided to plan a relay travel in the years 2009-2011 to ...

Lotoko, a Congolese moonshine

Lotoko, a Congolese moonshine
Penetrating dark passageways in search of lotoko An accidentally met Congolese girl leads us through the dark streets of Kalemie. We believe she is a person who knows a place where you can buy lotoko. In twilight, seeing only the shadows cast by warm light of street lamps we reach the secret place. It is ...

The Congo is falling apart

The Congo is falling apart
Transportation of barrels in the rural Congo The value of Congolese deposits of natural resources is estimated at over 20 trillion dollars. That is approximate equivalent of the entire U.S. housing market, or ten times the most recent financial crisis. The amount could be alternatively used to buy everyone on the planet a three packs ...

The Congo alongside Lake Tanganyika

The Congo alongside Lake Tanganyika
Okako, an overloaded ship on Lake Tanganyika The road leads through the wetlands of tall grass, an ideal habitat for tsetse flies. Out bikes make it through holes and muddy puddles on the road. We reach the first border town of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Three kids, in exchange for three flour donuts, lead ...

A marketplace in Bujumbura

A marketplace in Bujumbura
Meat stall at the market in the capital of Burundi A group of butchers is using machetes to chop bony cuts of beef. An incomprehensible kirundi language chatter is set to background by mixed sounds of bones being crushed and hullabaloo of hyperactive flies. A slightly tense atmosphere rises, then it suddenly intensifies. No one ...

Burundi, the heart of Africa

Burundi, the heart of Africa
A Hutu tribe woman, Burundi A scenic river runs along the valley defining the border with Rwanda. Since the outbreak of civil war and even after the official ceasefire, Burundi has a reputation of a very dangerous country. Just a year ago the capital city of Bujumbura was the only area controlled by the state, ...

A school in Rwanda

A school in Rwanda
Meeting kids in Rwandan school We visit an elementary school on the way. In one of the classrooms kids have classes. We decide to take a short break here. With a principal’s approval the students interrupt their lesson to meet us. The entire crowd of kids gathers up outside the building. For a good start, ...

Meetings in Kigali

Meetings in Kigali
Kigali, situated on the hill capital of Rwanda During the whole journey through Rwanda I hold the view that the country can easily be crossed on a bike without pedals. Nothing but short-lasting, adrenalin filling rides downhill and continuous uphill struggles, which are so steep that it is often more convenient to push the bike. Just ...

One thousand hills on a bike

One thousand hills on a bike
Mzungu among Rwandan kids Tired of a long journey we are looking for a bottle of cold beer. Searching through the mysterious alleys of Kigali all we find is a warm and tart banana wine. We still have to take a five-hour bus ride to Gisenyi, a town on the western end of Rwanda. It ...